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Big Easy vs Howard’s Meat Co vs the rest review – Fourth of July BBQ
The only way to celebrate US Independence Day is with barbecue. The 4th of July means American-style barbecue which is apt as it’s been almost a year since my comprehensive, popular and divisive group...
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Azerbaijan restaurant review – central Asia in North Finchley
No, I’ve never been to Azerbaijan either I’ve never been to Azerbaijan and it’s a safe bet that you haven’t either, unless you were especially adventurous during your gap year travels. If the menu of...
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Whyte and Brown review – substandard Kingly Court chicken
A new low for Soho Stumbling around Soho on a weekend evening with a cohort of inebriated mates is often a recipe for japes and mishaps. Giving money to beggars, attempting to break up a fight, hitting...
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Opso review – forget the Real Greek, this is the real deal
Marylebone Greek shows how it’s done You wait ages for a new Greek restaurant to open in London and then two arrive at the same time – first 21 Bateman Street, and now Opso. That isn’t strictly...
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The Providores and Tapa Room review – fusion Marylebone masterpiece
Can’t get into Chiltern Firehouse? Try here instead. Australia has a lot to answer for. Tony Abbott, Home and Away and The Veronicas are all things I can easily live without. But the Antipodes has also...
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Hateful restaurant website of the week – The Wapping Project
Insane. It’s a tad cheap and easy to take pot-shots at a restaurant that’s now closed for the second instalment in my occasional series highlighting truly hateful restaurant websites. The website for...
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64 Degrees London review – Brighton’s best flails and stumbles
The temperature at which hope burns Menus are funny things. As restaurants have become more casual, pared back and minimalist, so have the menus. 64 Degrees, an outpost of the Brighton original and...
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The best and worst Dim Sum for dinner in London – evening dumpling review
22 restaurants and hundreds of dishes reviewed – Dumpling dinner dreams and disasters Dim Sum is arguably one of Cantonese cuisine’s finest contributions to the world. It’s one of the few types of...
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Tredwell’s review – why the Evening Standard is wrong about Covent Garden’s...
Marcus Wareing or not, you need to eat here Covent Garden has more than its fair share of shoddy restaurants. For every quality eatery such as Ape and Bird or Opera Tavern, there’s a dozen more slop...
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Bubba Gump review – cynical tourist trap theme park
Run away, Forrest, run away! It’s very, very easy to be negative about Bubba Gump. The Leicester Square branch of this seafood chain is the first outside the US, but it follows the chain template so...
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The best and worst tonkotsu ramen in London – Ippudo vs Kanada-Ya vs Bone...
Not all of London’s Japanese pork bone broth noodle soups are created equal Londoners are experiencing a ramen revolution. This soothing noodle soup, once a hasty add-on buried in the extensive menus...
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Bobo Social review – fussy Fitzrovia burgers
Peanut butter burgers and chocolate chilli bacon sides There are so many burger restaurants in London that it takes something special for one to stand out. Unfortunately for Bobo Social, it didn’t...
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The Joint review – barbecue comes to Marylebone
Eat with your hands, poshos The number of American-style barbecue restaurants is growing, but not necessarily for the better. Mediocre restaurants such as Porky’s and Red Dog Saloon are opening up new...
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Smoking Goat review – Thai Soho barbecue
Smoky moody Tottenham Court Road dive bar Thai food in London has been stuck in something of a rut, with the usual pad thais and green curries predominating. That’s slowly start to change and one of...
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Blue Nile review – a taste of Eritrea in Woolwich
The best restaurant in Woolwich Woolwich is not one of London’s premier dining destinations – even the area’s most ardent defenders will admit that. Still, there are some culinary bright spots and one...
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The Palomar review – modern Jewish food hits Soho
Modern Jerusalem treats for pre/post-theatre and lone diner meals Despite appearances to the contrary, food from the Middle East has long had a presence in London from the Lebanese restaurants of...
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The Wild Game Co review – venison Fitzrovia pop-up
Quality venison that’s not too deer Opening a restaurant is almost as hard work as running one. Some restauranteurs take a long-winded path to opening their own premises, either by choice or necessity,...
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The Manor review – proof that Clapham isn’t just for wankers
Entire menu reviewed at intriguing Clapham surprise When I’d heard that a restaurant in Clapham, The Dairy, was serving high quality, complex and beguiling food I dismissed the reports as utter lunacy....
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Cock-olate jizz fudge cake from Cakes by Robin
Disclosure: This cake was given free of charge. This offer was unsolicited and Cakes by Robin had no input into, or control over, the contents of this article. Delivery was arranged via a proxy to...
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The best and worst lobster rolls in London review – Smack Lobster, Fraq’s...
Cut-price crustacean cuisine clash A lot of people get upset at the idea that London merely follows the example of New York when it comes to the latest food trends and fads. Proper burgers and ramen,...
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