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House of Ho review – modern Vietnamese food shakes up Soho?
No sniggering in the back The vast majority of Vietnamese restaurants in London have very traditional menus and tend to be clustered together in Hoxton and Deptford, with smaller concentrations in...
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Imli Street review – gluten-free Soho Indian
Contemporary Indian small plates for sharing I’m fortunate enough that I can almost anything I want, but others have restrictions on what they can eat. The Cape, the better half of the The Squinting...
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The best and worst banh mi in London – Vietnamese sandwiches review
18 eateries, 49 sandwiches, one verdict Pho, or beef noodle soup, is the dish most commonly known Vietnamese dish but there’s another that deserves just as much attention and love – the humble banh mi....
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Tayyabs review – Whitechapel curry praised in Haiku
Classic cheap curry consumed cheerfully For most Londoners, Tayyabs needs no introduction. Away from the tourist trap that is Brick Lane, this Whitechapel stalwart has been serving up inexpensive,...
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Rosa’s Thai Cafe review – Carnaby Street Thai surprise
Thai mini-chain sprouts again in Soho Restaurants, especially those serving foreign cuisines, have a funny relationship with names. They will often have a cliched name related to the mother country – a...
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Sardo review – classy Fitzrovia Sardinian
Independent Tottenham Court Road Italian There’s a small clutch of Italian restaurants on the western side of Tottenham Court Road in Fitzrovia, but most are either yawn-inducing chains or dreary...
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Franco Manca Tottenham Court Road review – West End take away pizza
Sourdough pizzas, both take-away and eat-in The trend for restaurants not taking reservations often means that you’ll have to queue. That’s definitely the case with Franco Manca, the immensely popular...
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Barnyard review – Dabbous does dirty food
Almost the entire menu reviewed at Fitzrovia’s Farmville-chic diner The phrase ‘dirty food’ is often used to describe the casual, inexpensive, non-haute cuisine, such as burgers and burritos, that have...
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8 Hoxton Square review – from Soho to Shoreditch but lost in translation
Soho’s 10 Greek Street comes to Shoreditch The originally-named 8 Hoxton Square is the sister restaurant of 10 Greek Street, one of my favourite restaurants of 2012. This was reason enough to get me...
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One Sixty review – American-style barbecue in West Hampstead
Pied a Terre does BBQ ribs and pulled pork Londoners have a perverted, distorted sense of distance. West Hampstead is in zone 2 and part of the borough of Camden. It’s a mere 20 min Tube journey, at...
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Q Grill review – bandwagon barbecue bumbles into Camden
Porky’s larger, better looking but shallower neighbour You wait months for a new American-style barbecue restaurant in London and two arrive at the same time. Q Grill in Camden arrives hot on the heels...
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Kurobuta Marble Arch review – modern Japanese izakaya falls flat
An Edgware Road restaurant that isn’t Lebanese Eating at Kurobuta has, if nothing else, confirmed that I’m slowly devolving into a cantankerous old fart. Kurobuta is a modern take on the izakaya, a...
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Fera at Claridge’s review – come back Gordon Ramsay, all is forgiven
Foraging in Mayfair We do a lot of things that our ancestors would find regressively, inexplicably primitive. In the past (and right now in the developing world while we’re at it), living in a field...
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Rawduck Hackney review – fish for Sunday roast, raw duck, cold lamb and more
East End brunch and dinner I’m deeply sceptical about the entire idea of brunch. It’s the original naff restaurant marketing gimmick – add some muesli and eggs to get a whole new meal! Charge extra for...
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Chiltern Firehouse review – sound the alarm, this place is on fire
Marylebone celeb hangout serves good grub I like to make repeat visits to restaurants before writing a review for any number of reasons, from trying to get a feel for the kitchen’s style to giving...
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Iberica Marylebone review – chorizo lollipops and dopey service
Great Portland Street tapas Restaurant decor in London seems to have fallen into a Shoreditch-inspired rut. Bare light bulbs, reclaimed furniture, exposed concrete and brick walls – I’m bored of it...
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A guide to Harringay Market – street food review
Pasta, pizza, katsu curry, jerk chicken and more North London’s Green Lanes is best known for its Turkish restaurants and grocers, but there’s another culinary reason to visit the Harringay area....
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Bilbao Berria review – Regent Street tapas that’s not quite good enough
Masterchef? What’s that? I don’t envy any new tapas restaurant opening in London. Unless you’re as good as José or Ember Yard, or as cheap as Barrafina, then it’ll be a real struggle to stand out....
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21 Bateman Street review – Greek grills and thrills in Soho
Greek food near Greek Street There are remarkably few Greek restaurants in London, especially when compared to the proliferation of Turkish restaurants. 21 Bateman Street, which follows the annoying...
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Heirloom review – Crouch End’s hidden gem
Better than Fera at Claridge’s, any day of the week Despite its booming property prices, leafy lanes and bourgeois reputation, Crouch End isn’t one of London’s dining hotspots. This is almost certainly...
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