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Sarap Bistro review – going whole hog, Filipino-style
Pigging out with the Filipino restaurant that moved from Brixton to Mayfair Names are funny things. In French and Italian, you don’t just have ‘restaurants’. There’s a whole system of names for...
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Lahpet West End review – a taste of Burma in Covent Garden
A tantalising array of skewers, salads and seafood that’d you be a fool to miss out on Special thanks to MiMi Aye, author of Burmese cookbook Mandalay, for proofreading this review. ‘Burmese food...
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Plaza Khao Gaeng review – a trippy taste of Thailand on Tottenham Court Road
The punchy restaurant hidden away on top of a food court It’s a bit of a tired cliche to say that restaurants, when serving food originally from faraway shores, can whisk you away to those far flung...
View ArticleFood writing jealousy list 2022
The words that I wish I had written over the past year 2022 has been a strangely liminal year, one of transitions and incongruities. Even though the pandemic isn’t over, most people in the UK are...
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Acme Fire Cult review – smoke but no fire in the backstreets of Dalston
Vegetables finally get the barbecue treatment… or do they? If cooking is the art of transformation, then meat often undergoes the greatest of all transfigurations – especially in the world of...
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Namek Mandi review: private dining Pashtun-style means scoffing a whole lamb
Rather than hog a whole hogget to yourself, bring some mates and tupperware with you to Tooting. Private dining in London often means sitting in a finely upholstered room, but with some remorsefully...
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Eating my way around the Isle of Skye with a pitstop in Edinburgh
This Scotland-focussed article is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage. For such a relatively small island, the Isle of Skye has a surprisingly large number of restaurants – no...
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Ye Ye Noodle and Dumplings review: the Chinese gem tucked away on a City...
Tubthumping noodles and dumplings that you’ll struggle to find anywhere else. There’s this scene in Kill Bill Vol 2 where the eponymous Bill, memorably played by David Carradine, goes off on a slight...
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Dragon Castle – little dumplings of joy in Elephant and Castle
There’s plenty of decent sinophilic eating to be had outside of Chinatown. Tourists, out-of-towners and people new to London automatically head to Chinatown whenever they’re in need of a hearty...
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German Doner Kebab review – I don’t understand anything anymore
Woolwich already had four terrible kebab takeaways. Now it has a fifth. There’s a crusty old saying that doing the same thing repeatedly and expecting a different result is the very definition of...
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Begging Bowl review – the mother of all nu-Thai restaurants isn’t what it was
Long-lived isn’t always the same thing as top-notch The only thing more uncommon than a long-lived restaurant in London is a long-lived restaurant that’s still at the top of its culinary game. The...
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Taca Tacos review – the Mexican hole-in-the-wall with an ace in the hole
Come for the tacos; stay for the birria One of the great things about tacos is that there’s nowhere to hide. When using a small maize tortilla, there’s very little room to hide slapdash sauces and...
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Rincon Costeno review – an offally good taste of Ecuador in Elephant and Castle
Broaden your horizons by eating someone else’s comfort food There’s a theory that for any foreign cuisine to take root and become popular in the UK, its various traditions, flavours, ingredients and...
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Jerk Yard review – the Deptford hole-in-the-wall trying to be the jack of all...
If necessity is the mother of invention, then not having enough space must be its midwife. Despite its prominent spot in the Deptford Yard market, Caribbean takeaway Jerk Yard seems to get far less...
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Everyday People review – ramen that’s not daylight robbery, but it’s not...
This review of a Nottingham restaurant is a break from the Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage. I occasionally wonder what Japanese people think of the Japanese food they encounter outside the...
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Uzbek Corner review: a taste of Uzbekistan in Bayswater
The ‘exotic’ yet homely Central Asian restaurant hidden in Queensway Market Although it’s not quite as common as it used to be, there’s a hoary old cliche found on restaurant menus across the land:...
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The best and worst takeaway Cantonese roasts in London
55 portions of roast duck, 47 of char siu, 49 of roast pork and 39 of chicken from 43 eateries. This isn’t your racist uncle’s Chinese takeaway. While other regional Chinese cuisines from Sichuanese...
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Josephine Bouchon review: the French menu that tastes even better than it reads
Hearty French food that’s worth going back for When I re-reviewed Bibendum, after its kitchen had been taken over by noted chef Claude Bosi back in the bucolic days of 2017, I noted that one or two of...
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