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Chishuru review – the Nigerian newcomer in Brixton that already feels at home
It has a pair of outdoor tables too #invite and #ad are such innocuously deceptive hashtags. They mean little to most people, if they notice them at all. In the world of restaurant reviewing though,...
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Alhaji Suya review – Nigerian barbecue for takeaway and next day delivery
Jerky, sizzling spice and all things nice in a Greenwich industrial estate Lockdown, whether in spring or in autumn, can feel like a literal and metaphorical wall blocking you off from other parts of...
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The must-read food writing of 2020
Finely-crafted words to absorb along with a cup of coffee underneath a snug blanket Christmas and New Year’s are all about traditions. For this website, my minor festive tradition is to round up and...
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Kaieteur Kitchen review – a taste of Guyana in Elephant and Castle
The unassuming takeaway and caff quietly knocking out belters Takeaways. While the mere mention of them will bring tears of excitement to many, I became disillusioned with takeaways long ago. In far...
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Bala Baya review – the outside terrace with a crowd-pleasing menu
A Middle Eastern sharing menu with some charm, here and there. A curious thing happened in medieval Europe following the apocalyptic devastation of the Black Death. With workers fewer in number, those...
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Jollibee Leicester Square review – East Asian fast food, lost in translation
The food in this review was paid for, in part, using a gift voucher from Jollibee’s UK public relations firm. The voucher was unsolicited and they had no say over anything in this review, nor were...
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Humble Chicken vs Junsei review – chicken skewers, but with guts
Soho vs Marylebone yakitori face-off Disclosure: the first of my meals at Junsei occurred during the discounted soft launch period. I had thought the soft launch had ended as I prefer to avoid them...
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Lao Café review: a taste of Laos in Covent Garden
From the people behind Rosa’s Thai Café, a som tam by any other name would be as spicy Names, labels and categorisations are funny things. No matter how arbitrary, ambiguous or artificial they may be,...
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Bao Noodle Shop review – the best noodle soup you’ve never heard of
That difficult fifth album restaurant is nonetheless a hit Disclosure: on one of my visits, a single dish was offered for free. This offer was not solicited and was accepted out of politeness. Like...
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Craving review – vegetarian ramen hidden away near Tottenham Hale
There’s deliberately no tonkotsu on the menu, but there is tonkatsu watermelon Some tasks can feel impossible. Getting your kids to eat their vegetables, stopping your nan from believing daft things...
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Darby’s review – steak and seafood in the shadow of the new American embassy
Nine Elms doesn’t have to mean zero taste Nine Elms is a funny ol’ place. Largely still a building site at the time of writing, when finished it will offer an unappetising vision of what London could...
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Perry Hill Pub review – the gastropub dabbling in barbecue
A pub that’s welcoming to all, even if its food won’t be to everyone’s taste Pubs may be a home away from home for many, but that’s not the case for everyone. As someone who doesn’t drink alcohol,...
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Eating my way across the Brecon Beacons
Nothing builds up an appetite like walking 140km across Wales Deciding where to eat when you’re on holiday can be a tricky business. The quality of guide book recommendations is, to put it politely,...
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Brunswick House review – outdoor feasting at a Georgian mansion
An oasis of calm and good taste in Nine Elms Choosing a restaurant isn’t as carefree and fun as it should be these days. Alongside considerations like menu, atmosphere and location, we still have to...
View ArticleFood writing jealousy list 2021
Rest easy: The best food writing I’ve read this year isn’t about the pandemic In a year when it’s still generally been advisable to spend more time at home than eating out with others, it’s perhaps...
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Tofu Vegan review – the plant-based Islington restaurant with age-old roots
I come to praise Chinese mock meats, not to bury them Many people are wary and cautious of the new and different, especially food. Acceptance often comes gingerly, with the new arrival initially...
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La Chingada review – the converted caff dishing up Mexican gems
Previously a small takeaway, this restaurant has not only moved into larger premises around the corner, but has also upped its game. Some things truly do get better with age. While numerous...
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The best and worst takeaway pizza near London Bridge
When 133 pizzas from 60 Southwark pizzerias hits your gut, that’s amore. Even by my standards, this particular Best and Worst group test was a monumentally daft undertaking. Eating pizzas from any...
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Taco Bell review – whitewashed Mexican-ish fast food comes to Woolwich
Ring, ring, ring the bells for more fast food hell For most British people, their only knowledge of Taco Bell will be from the infamous scenes in Sylvester Stallone’s mildly diverting 1993 sci-fi yarn...
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Club Mexicana review – a wretched vegan impersonation of Mexican food
The whitewashing at this Kingly Court restaurant is royally screwed up. There are queues everywhere in London. Alongside all the usual queues that you’d expect – to get pissed, to have a piss, to be...
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