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Kyseri review – this Oklava sequel packs big flavours into a cosy space
The modern Turkish restaurant that’s far too good for Fitzrovia’s backstreets Although I only spent a day in the modern, nondescript Turkish city of Kayseri a few years back, the mere mention of this...
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Brigadiers review – the City version of Gymkhana smokes and sizzles…
… but the fire is fizzling out. On paper, Brigadiers sounds like a raucous yet soulless Cityboy frathouse. Brigadiers doesn’t just serve Indian-style grilled meats. It serves them in a clubhouse-style...
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St Leonards review – meat and fish thrills on the backstreets of Shoreditch
This restaurant is my new Vice It takes balls to open a restaurant like St Leonards. Fulsome, dangly ones that sway and jiggle with every sigh and cough. It’s either that or the proprietors’ first...
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Bob’s Lobster review – from street food van to London Bridge railway arch
But the claws on this seafood beast have been tied Street food traders have been settling down and turning into proper restaurants at an astonishingly rapid rate. In the same span of a few short years,...
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Henry’s review – cosy vegetarian dining in the back streets of Bath
This review of a Bath restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London coverage While it’s highly unlikely I’ll ever become a vegetarian, I have a great deal of sympathy for people who are...
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Etles review – this Walthamstow Uyghur restaurant is the Turkish-Chinese...
Bring your own booze to this north London gem I’m sometimes asked why I hate anglicised Chinese food so much. It’s not the food that I hate per se, even though I’m certainly no fan of cloying yet dull...
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Temper Covent Garden review – bafflingly odd pizza that breaks all the rules
This carnivorous threequel even serves vegan pizzas While the menus of some eateries seem to have been designed by committees and focus groups, the Temper group of restaurants has never like that. Each...
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Xi’an Biang Biang Noodles review – a rare taste of faraway Shaanxi in London
This Xi’an Impression spin-off brings the spice of life to Aldgate There’s no doubt that London can be a chaotic, stressful place that can drain not only your bank account, but also your tolerance for...
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Kin et Deum review – the revamped London Bridge Thai that hasn’t fallen far...
Uncomfortable reading lies ahead The trio of siblings behind Kin et Deum would doubtless prefer that I spend this introduction focussing on their Thai restaurant’s airy and tastefully decorated...
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Masala Wala Café review – Brockley curry restaurant focusses on what matters
Curry by any other name would taste as delicious Choosing how to describe your restaurant and its style of cooking can be a tricky thing. Masala Wala Cafe is a case in point, describing itself as a...
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Singburi review – the thrilling Thai restaurant that could close forever
Leytonstone’s best kept secret Singburi is a Thai restaurant in Leytonstone, but it’s hardly new as it was established back in the heady, halcyon days of 1999. While hardly unknown, it hasn’t garnered...
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1251 review – this Islington restaurant is trying to make a name for itself…
… but is coming up short. Names can be many things. A descriptive label, a pigeonhole, a statement of intent. It’s therefore striking that Islington restaurant 1251 has such an easily forgotten, easily...
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Red Farm review – this Chinese restaurant isn’t revolutionary, but it is...
It’s an import from New York in Covent Garden, but don’t hold that against it ‘Red Farm’ sounds like a Maoist agricultural collective where exiled bourgeoise are forced to hunt sparrows as part of...
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Two Lights review – this unassuming Clove Club sequel is full of surprises
Grouse sausage and a mussels flatbread in Hoxton ‘We’ll need the table back in two hours’ is a familiar phrase for restaurant-going Londoners, but is utterly alien to many foreign visitors – especially...
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Bababoom vs Maison Bab review – new wave kebabs head-to-head
Islington brisket vs Covent Garden celeriac Traditional Turkish kebabs are nigh-on perfect. Whether you prefer shish, kofte, doner, iskender or beyti, the smoke and sizzle of a charcoal mangal is hard...
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Berenjak review – this JKS restaurant got me hooked on Iranian kebabs
Iranian stews and kebabs in Soho It’s strange to begin a restaurant review by talking about another restaurant, but bear with me for a moment. Some of the best dishes at Brigadiers, an Indian...
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Casa Pastor review – the Kings Cross Mexican trying to make diamonds from coal
But the result is taco zirconium Most restauranteurs would kill to have the premises that Casa Pastor has managed to snag for itself. The handsome Victorian brick-and-iron building near Kings Cross...
View ArticleThe 2018 food writing jealousy list
Words I wish I had written in 2018 (and 2017, for that matter) As 2018 staggers to an end, the realisation dawns on me that I’ve been writing this website for almost eight years. The number of lost...
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Burger and Beyond review – there’s more to this Shoreditch restaurant than...
Street food stall settles down in Shoreditch Burger and Beyond’s story sounds like such a throwback from the past, that it’s almost quaint in its retro-ness. This burger stall, a stalwart of street...
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Din Tai Fung Covent Garden review – people are queuing for hours to order the...
The biggest restaurant chain you’ve never heard of has opened in central London It should go without saying, but no restaurant is worth queuing for – at least in London or any other metropolis that’s...
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