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Duddell’s review – heavenly Chinese cooking in a London Bridge church
Hong Kong jewel glistens in the shadow of the Shard It’s very easy to take things for granted and Cantonese food is one of those things. London has been fortunate enough to benefit from some...
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Santo Remedio London Bridge review – the best Mexican restaurant in London is...
Disclosure: I contributed to Santo Remedio’s crowd-funding campaign on Kickstarter with a modest donation in the region of £75-200. Arrogant. Cocksure. Overconfident know-nothing. Snooty elitist. Those...
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The best dishes of 2017 – food that you need in your life
2017 has been an incredibly hectic year for London restaurants, even by the frenetic standards of this city. Despite the closure of some much missed favourites, new restaurants have continued to open...
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Bombay Bustle review – the casual Jamavar spin-off stuck at the platform
In this case ‘casual’ means ‘cheaper’. Sort of. It’s always fascinating to see what happens when a lauded, Michelin-starred fine-dining restaurant launches a ‘casual’ spin-off. When Dabbous attempted...
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Little Duck The Picklery review – the height of summer in the depths of winter
Picklery not gimmickry. The sweet life. Keep it sweet. A sweet deal. Sweet as honey. Sweet as pie. Our understandable preoccupation with sweetness and sweet foods is so deeply ingrained that the word...
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Tacos del 74 Dalston review – even worse than Tex-Mex food
You couldn’t pay me to eat here again. People like to sneer at hipsterish restaurants and bars in Shoreditch and Dalston. They’re seen by many as faddy, shallow trend-chasing establishment serving up...
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Indian Accent vs Gymkhana review: black pudding naan vs venison biryani
Slumming it in Mayfair for South Asian haute cuisine giggles Pitting Gymkhana against Indian Accent seems like such a natural thing to do. Both are pricey high-end Indian restaurants on the same street...
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Sorella review – pivoting from one cuisine to another in hard times
The Manor transforms into an Italian It’s tough times for restaurants with household names and independents alike having to close up shop all across the country. Skyrocketing business rates, a...
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Sushi Atelier review – great value sushi where you least expect it
The Chisou empire’s Great Portland Street outpost Of all the London restaurants to have closed in the past year or two, few have wounded me as much as the unexpected closure of Ten Ten Tei. That budget...
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Sabor review – tapas downstairs, roast suckling pig upstairs
Not quite the Barrafina 2.0 you were hoping for I try not to write too much about the personalities in London’s restaurant business for many reasons. But when two of the people behind Barrafina, the...
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Shu Xiangge Chinatown review – plenty of brains and heart, just not always in...
Unapologetically Sichuanese hotpot Shuang Shuang, the Chinese hotpot restaurant married to a conveyor belt, befuddled many of its Chinatown neighbours when it first opened. Comparatively expensive with...
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Brat review – turbot charged Shoreditch meat and fish
It’s tempting to dismiss Brat out of hand before you’ve even laid eyes on the place. It’s situated above the newly relocated Smoking Goat in Shoreditch, which makes it sound like the hospitality...
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Mãos review – the enigmatic Viajante supper club isn’t that mysterious after all
But don’t tell that to the Nuno Mendes fanboys Update 10/4/18 – added a few new sentences to the conclusion. When you’re one of London’s most feted chefs, responsible for smash hits like the Chiltern...
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Mrs Le’s review – Clapham Junction’s rule-breaking Vietnamese diner
Banh mi and grilled meats galore If you’ve had Vietnamese food in London in the last decade or so, then you’ll know the drill when you walk through the doors at any one of the capital’s umpteen...
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Lahpet review – Burmese food in Shoreditch
Street food residency settles down around the corner from Smokestak There’s a well-worn, well-thumbed playbook to opening a restaurant in London serving a previously unknown, or at least little known,...
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Hide review – the Dabbous sequel that could only have been born in Mayfair
Upstairs, Downstairs and where the two meet There are restaurants where it’s clear that compromises have been made. Whether due to money, time or stress, or some unfortunate combination of all three, a...
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Street Feast Woolwich Public Market review: a street food guide
If there’s an ‘R’ word other than ‘restaurant’ that will elicit fierce emotions and strongly held opinions, then it’s ‘regeneration’ and the associated effects of gentrification that go with it. It’s...
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Daddy Bao review – Tooting Taiwanese buns
Mr Bao’s classy sequel There’s an old cliché that second albums are more difficult for bands to produce than their debut disc. All sorts of factors are blamed, from newly inflated egos to overindulgent...
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Lina Stores review – Soho Italian deli spawns its own dedicated pasta restaurant
The West End’s other Italian restaurants should be pistachio green with envy. You’d be forgiven for thinking that London’s recent spate of pasta-only Italian restaurants materalised out of thin air,...
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Bright review – the Bethnal Green wine bar full of surprises
The P Franco sequel hiding near London Fields Even if the UK wasn’t a nation soaked in booze from head to toe, eating out in London as a teetotaller isn’t always easy. While plenty of people also...
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